A nice, heavy duty extension cord to provide power to items such as table saws, drills, and more. Mount it on a wall or ceiling to keep it out of the way.

There is no issues , I like that I can pull the extension cord out and plug in my tools or whatever . Its attached to the ceiling in my garage. Easy to use.

The unit itself is a heavy duty casing with heavy gauge wire which spools in and out well. That deserves 5 stars. The glow indicator I could do without as I hate wasting electricity. The mounting connectors, OTOH, deserve 0 stars. The drywall expansion bolts could easily pull out of a ceiling and kill someone while the Phillips head lags are a PITA to install. I will explain some better methods.For overhead suspension, you could go into an attic and drop U bolts, penetrating the drywall and straddling trusses or joists, but using slotted angle iron is far easier. First, use a stud finder to locate overhead trusses or joists. If you can mount inline, a 12” length is adequate. If mounting perpendicular to trusses/joists, a 26” length is required to span the typical 24” on center. Find the beams, mark your centers, drill PILOT HOLES, mount the angle iron with hex lags and washers using battery powered driver set on hammer-drive. Suspend the unit from its top bar center hole using a spring clip/carabiner of accommodating diameter. Depending upon the direction you wish the unit to face, you may wish to link a 2nd biner in between to rotate the unit 90°. A double biner with center swivel connection is even better. IF you find two trusses/joists sistered together, you could use the included bracket (without the angle iron) as per directions below. Just be sure to use the set screw.For wall installation on a single stud, the mounting bracket cannot attach to the stud without a wooden “shoe” in between. My example photos show a piece of true 1” x 4” x 11’ piece of scrap 19 ply Russian Birch. This works very well, however a good quality scrap piece of 2” x 6” x 11’ lumber will work as well; just avoid knots and deformities and be sure it is completely flat. Place the bracket on the shoe and mark your 4 mounting hole locations. Also mark 3 locations down the center line for attachment to the stud. Pre-drill all 7 pilot holes. The 3 down the center line of the shoe can be the same diameter as the lags you intend to use, however all other pilot holes need to be smaller diameter than the lags in order for the helix to have appropriate “bite.”Use the stud finder and mark the stud. Center-align the shoe with the stud and use a punch to mark the location of the 3 centerline anchors. Pre-drill PILOT HOLES at punched locations. You must attach the shoe to the stud prior to mounting the bracket. If the heads on your hex lags added to your washer thickness are too great, you could wind up needing to countersink those 3 center holes a small amount, although that is unlikely. Go ahead and lag the shoe to the stud with the hex lags and washers. Now use appropriate length short hex lags to mount the bracket to the shoe. Slide the unit in place. Use of set screw is optional due to gravity holding it in place.Now, IF you found a double/sistered stud, you can mount the bracket directly to them without the shoe. If you find a triple, be aware that two of your lags might slip into the interface between two studs. This has slightly less strength, but is likely not much issue.My attached photos show 1) A short piece of angle iron lagged inline with a truss, 2) My reel suspended from a 26” length of angle iron mounted perpendicular between 2 trusses that are 24” on center, 3) How the wooden shoe should be marked up prior to drilling pilot holes, and 4) Where the bracket would lie in relation to the shoe (though it is not shown mounted).I hope these directions will make your installation easier and safer.

Good quality. Great for garage. Easy to use.

It's real! I like it, Heavy duty, good tight plugs!

Works well and is durable. I really like the reset button when running many devices it trips and easy reset. I usually run my Ridgid vacuum and another power tool at the same time and it doesn’t trip. Although, I do use a switch that turns the tool on first for split second then the vacuum. The tools I have used @ the same time with my vacuum are different sanders, table saw, planer, band saw and Festool Domino. The cord is very durable and to wind back in works fine. Just be patient. I would definitely buy it again.

The spring is weak and it doesn't retract the cord...at all You literally have to manually feed the cord back in. It's almost as if they took the spring for their 12 gauge wire unit and just put 10 gauge wire on it. They should have just put a handle crank on it so you can manually wind it back in.It also doesn't spool cord evenly and tends to load one side. So it's stops halfway through, you have to pull it back out and start over. It's a pain and it's only marginally easier than dragging a 10 gauge extension cord across the shop floor when I need it. That's the only reason I gave it two stars.I would not buy this again and can't recommend this brand.

Simple and directions were perfect

good build quality and well priced for the features and specs 60 feet 12gauge triple socket lighted