Components installed:- One Rockford Fosgate R2S-1X10 10-inch shallow loaded enclosure- Kenwood KDC-BT555U receiver/head- Boss R1100M monoblock amp- Sirius/XM SXV-200v1 tuner- Metra single DIN faceplate kit- Metra wiring harness adapterI wanted to use a local business for this installation, but they quoted me $750 to install $250 worth of components. So I decided to order the stuff from Amazon and do it myself. I got a much better head, a better amp, the Sirius/XM tuner (not included in the quote from the local vendor) and the same subwoofer/enclosure for less than $350. It took me parts of three days to do the install, but it was fun, I learned a lot, and I do quality work (even if I do say so myself).The bottom line is, the system sounds awesome. I had already upgraded the stock Infinity speakers in the front and rear doors with a set of Boston Acoustic speakers. I did this a few years ago when the stock speakers got wet or rotted and started buzzing. This gave me a tinny sound that had very little low end. That and the fact that I could not use my iPhone with this system finally prompted me to upgrade. I had never installed an amp before and didn't have the first idea what would be required. Luckily a lot of info is available on the Internet that makes this stuff doable.The local installer had told me that this size subwoofer enclosure would fit behind the smaller driver-side rear seat in my Dakota Quad Cab, but that turned out to be incorrect. The alternative is to spend an additional $200-$300 to purchase a molded enclosure, plus the cost of the actual subwoofer. So I decided to locate the enclosure on the rear floorboard, snugged up against the middle console, facing backwards. I am still in the process of trying to decide how to anchor it there--it's dangerous to have something that heavy not properly anchored down, as it could become the source of severe head trauma in a crash. I am thinking I'll probably use some combination of velcro and home-made brackets. The one thing I have noticed is that, if it is placed directly against the back of the console, the console will not lift up and out of the way in the front seat. This is a problem for me, because that's usually where I place my Glock when I'm transporting it but want to keep it out of view.. But, from a rear-seat occupant perspective, this configuration allows two people to still ride comfortably in the back, though it does extend slightly into each occupant's knee space. It pretty much makes the middle seat unusable though, so if you need that much passenger room, you will need to spring for the molded enclosures that fits under that seat. Luckily I rarely have passengers riding in the back.The hardest thing about the install was running the 8-guage power supply from the battery through the firewall into the pax compartment. Using Internet research, I located the wiring harness grommet on the driver's side, and was able to use a coathanger to get the wire through. I pushed the coathanger through and then electrical-taped the 8-guage power supply wire to the other end of the coathanger. First time it came loose, but second attempt worked like a charm.The wiring harness kit was pretty simple. The order is Kenwood wiring harness-->adapter kit from Amazon-->factory connections in my truck. The wiring is almost idiot-proof as it is pretty much color-to-color. The only discretion involved my truck's OEM amplifier--I needed to connect its control wire and the new amp's control wire to the single P-CONT wire from the new harness. If you understand that all these wires do is turn on the amps when the radio is powered up and turn them off again when the head unit is off, it's a no-brainer to figure out you just need to wire both control wires to this same wire in the harness.To test the connections, I twisted all the wires together and electrical-taped them. Once I confirmed everything was working, I took the harnesses back into my house and soldered them and used rubber heat shrink around the soldered connections. I prefer that to the cheap crimp connectors included in the 1100 amp wiring kit I purchased at Walmart.The one thing that nearly threw me off was the amp's "Protection" light that illuminated after I cleaned everything up and put the trim back on the interior of my truck. Luckily, I was able to search the Amazon user comments and learned that an improperly grounded amp is one of the causes. Sure enough, I removed the piece of trim under which I had connected the 8-guage ground wire to the body of the truck with a screw and saw that I had jarred loose the ground wire when I snapped that piece of trim back in. My advice is, if you get a "Protection" light on this amp, check the ground wire connection before you do anything else.I am amazed at the quality of the sound. The bass is amazing and it's almost like having a new truck. I highly recommend these components.

Long story short, hubby is using this as an amp for a subwoofer in our 5.1 home theater system, works as expected. Our setup:Onkyo TX-SR304 (65W per channel)Center channel: RCA 40-5038 200W Center Channel Speaker Dual 5" Drivers Monopole Linaeum TweeterMains: Pioneer S-HF21-LR (100W each)Surrounds: Realistic Minimus-7W 40-2039B Walnut grain (40W each)Sub: BSR DR-SW15x2 passive dual coil (200W)Sub Amp (this item): Boss R1100M Riot Monoblock ampSub Amp power supply: FSP 300-60BN (+12v @ 11A max)As you can see, our HT system is a piecemeal of older components so an auto amp powering the sub is no stranger to our living room. Once the sub was wired up for 4-ohm dual-L/R bridged to 8-ohm it keeps the volume levels consistent via the LFE pre-out (which needed a single-to-dual RCA adapter to connect to the low-level input on the BOSS amp) it is a welcome addition to our system.Pros: Good sound at lower power, low price (easily 1/3 the cost of typical dedicated sub pre-amp/amplifiers for HT use).Cons: The remote unit does not seem to control the volume level as expected, lots of elbow grease needed to convert this to HT use (not really a con, very fun to be honest :)Lucked out with the FSP PSU, is able to run on +12v load alone without needing 5v or 3.3v pull-up (sometimes needed for older PC switching power supplies) and the +12v rail should be able to handle the power to match the Onkyo output without any problems (and can be replaced w/ a seasonic SS unit quite easily). All the +12v yellow wires were snipped from the molex connectors (and one from the 20-pin ATX, 5x18AWG total for +12v) were bundled to a yellow crimp connector mated to 2x16AWG zip cord for power to the amp, and same for the ground. The cheap sony speakers in the pic were just for testing the BSRs crossover, they are terrible but work :)Once it was all set up we fired up the youtube app on our Visio smart TV and played some random R&B compilation, the first track was Bruno's 24K Magic - WOW what a difference that sub makes, the 15" rocks the entire wall unit when turned up, had to turn it down before the pictures started falling of the shelf. Needless to say, we are extremely satisfied with our purchase.

Nice amp, but it overheats and shuts off a lot :(

My only worry? Will it hold up or what kind durability and reliability does it have.Background:Been playing with car stereos since the Delco 8-Track and Mind Blower 6 X 9's in my 1974 Monte Carlo. Use a set of Marantz Home Audio speakers and that car stereo absolutely pushed these 150 each speakers with about 99db at 1 watt rating. We'd go to the park, open the truck stand the speakers up and they get almost discotheque loud. They also still held great sound and almost distortion free.The current system sounds better LOL! The system consists of: An old 2005 GMC Envoy, Bose Audio System with surround sound, Center Console with DVD Player and separate sound system for the rear passenger. Everything on it still works that's why I kept it. It sounds good but was never meant heavy music and even Hotel California makes it limit itself. It will not let you blow it (Amp and or Speakers) up playing the music too loud. My goal was to keep this intact but add some punch to it.Goals met and exceeded!First I added a PAC AOEMGM24 Add An Amp Interface. Sweet video on you tube for adding this device to the the Bose Car Audio Receiver. It gave it a 5 star review as well. This took about an half an hour and everything went well.The R1100M Amp was installed in about 20 minutes because I already had a 80 + 80 two channel amp installed. All I had to do is install the remote knob. A snap and took longer to run the wire. I didn't run mine all the way to the back and it barely fits under the driver's seat. I'm only using one 2500 watt (they wish LOL) Pioneer Premier 10" speaker. Its 4ohm DVC is rigged for 2ohm operation. http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/9201/14ohmdvc2ohm.gif and TSW2501-D4. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures_new.php?id=9235&picture_id=-1Setup worked out to only about 4 on the volume and crossed over at or around 80hz.. One day now and only 10 songs. The reviewers saying it is a very good amp for the money nailed it. So far I'm glad I bought it. This is too much amp for that one 10" speaker. Even with the Volume on the Bose receiver at only at 3.5 to 4, it booms out some of the sweetest lows and easily compare to my 500 Watt JBL SB 120 in the house:) But its louder than that JBL by a bunch. If I had to guess, I'd say 200 Watts clean without any kind of strain. Once setup, it is louder than I want or need but is nice having the ump there if I need it. Sadie's "Ordinary Love". I'm thinking What in the hell is there a boost setting for LOL!As soon as Johnny Guitar Watson's "A Real Mother For Ya" first bass note hit, this thing rocked. Hotel California bass and bass drum shook my review mirror so hard I thought it was going to fall off. Dang I'm too old for this but still love it. Two Higher end twelves or average 15"'s would love this thing. Remote knob works just like it is supposed to.Easy 5 star!

Shipped quickly and works great!!! My son absolutely loves it. He hooked it up as soon as he got it with no issues 🙌🏽

Pretty good for the money. Lasted 4 years. Bass is decent but not doesn't bump that hard.

Sorry folks...But there are a couple of myths, being two pieces of (...dare I say it?) outright misinformation that have become attached to this compact masterpiece, ...even though I'm sure both of them were offered with the best of intentions.As for me, I thought I'd wait until I'd driven it hard and bounced it around the Aussie Outback for a couple of months before any attempt at reviewing it.A little background: I'm an Audio Director/Sound Supervisor in my fifth decade of ongoing work in this field, most of it live (or "as live") and on location.My Boss Audio R1100M is used to drive either full-spectrum sub plus line array or horn plus ported-woofer long range speakers (a choice dependent on the vagaries of weather and/or crowd numbers) at impedances from four to sixteen ohms, ...the only constant factor being the need to rely exclusively on DC vehicle power.The verdict: ...five stars. No doubt whatsoever.The Boss Audio R1100M delivers far more than something that's roughly the price of a case of beer should ever be able to do.(What a crying shame that its excellent internal fan-cooling arrangements don't actually extend to chilling beer. Now that WOULD be a world-beater...)To those well-intentioned myths:First, "The Remote Subwoofer Level Control doesn't work."Not when the amp's switched to "Full Range" it doesn't.When it's in "Full Range", it isn't expecting to be driving just a subwoofer, is it? Switched to "Low Pass" (i.e. subwoofer) mode, the remote control works a treat.Second, "It's under-powered."Hang on a cotton-picking second, did you honestly expect to have mountain-moving power for the price of a case of cold ones?Now look at it's main fuse. It's 30 amps. That's your lot, any more and it all goes dark and quiet until we replace the fuse.Time for some basic arithmetic, 12 x 30 = 360. That's 360 watts of total power going in.Wait a second, my alternator kicks out a gargantuan 14.4 volts! Whoopee! Hurrah! Huzzah! Hallelujah! I've now got an earth-shattering 432 watts at my command!...Uuh, ...um, ...well, ...er, ...I WOULD have if everything inside the immaculately designed Boss-Box yielded 100% efficiency.Sadly, 100% efficiency from ANY power system is the stuff of Nobel Prizes and/or science fiction.(Trust me when I say that you won't ever again need to consult anyone's review of anything after YOU'VE developed a power system that's 100% efficient.)Meanwhile, back in the "Real World", guess what?With power being wasted to generate heat, run cooling fans and the losses inherent in each and every electronic step taken, the BEST amplifiers are around 25% efficient.25% of 432 watts?That would be 108, just a tad LESS than I (and others) have observed to be the continuous power actually (and reliably) delivered from this tiny Boss-Box into 4 ohms.The controls all do exactly what they're meant to do. The sound is clean, gutsy and free of artefacts, so, by way of a conclusion, here's the outcome of some OTHER basic arithmetic I did prior to buying it...I can't buy an aluminium housing of comparable ruggedness for the price of this entire amplifier.

First of all, this amp sounds nice. I have it paired with the Rockford R2 Prime 12 inch Sub in a sealed BBox . Correctly tune this bad boy and you will have a system that bumps in your car, while not disturbing the public. If you are into sound quality and just want to add that low end to your music, this amp does the trick, bit dont buy this if your are trying to win sound competitions. If you buy this, Amazon will show you that other people have bought the Boss 8 gauge wiring kit...dont do it! The kit is not as good as this amp. This amp requires an 8 gauge wire, but the boss kit is not true to gauge. If you buy their 8 gauge kit, you will get a power wire that is 12 gauge after you strip the insulation. This is dangerous, so dont do it. I ordered the boss kit and immediately return it and went to walmart and spent 25 bucks on a scosche 8 gauge kit that uses 100 percent copper and true 8 gauge. Get your wiring right and learn how to properly tune an amp and you will have good result...make sure to look for a sub that is rated at least 250 watts RMS at 4 ohms and it will sound nice and wont burn down your car.Update: I forgot to mention the bass boast feature on here. Generally, they say dont turn this on, but on this amp you might have to to get that punch. I am running a 4 ohm sub with and rms of 250w. in order for me to get 250 rms output from the amp, i had to switch on bass boost so that i could achieve that voltage i needed from the output of the amp, with is 31.6 volts. The math is simple. decide how many watts you wanna run....in my case its 250w. You multiply this by the ohm of your sub....for me its 4 ohms...so 250 x 4 = 1000. Then take the square root of 1000 which equals 31.6 V . Next,download a 50hz test tone from the internet and put it on your phone, mp3 player or cd. Next turn your gain on your amp all the way down, and if you have the bass knob installed, turn this all the way up. Disconnect the sub from the amp. Using a multimeter, put your leads on the amp output and set your meter to AC voltage. Go back to the head unit and play the 50 hz test tone and turn it up on your head unit until you get distortion, then back it off so its clean again....or turn it up 3/4 of the way. Go back to the amp and adjust the gain on your amp amd look at your voltage on your meter, turn it until you reach your target voltage based on the math above.For most people, they will need to turn on bass boost to achieve a high enough voltage from the output of the amp. with out bass boost, the voltage is too low and youll be likely underpowering the sub. I hope this helps someone who is looking at this amp. like i said this amp is wonderful, if you know how to tune it and get it to output your watts you need.

Mono no me gusta

Ottima qualità

I purchased the R1100 last week and about half an hour later was emailed to say they did not have it in stock but could send the R1600 for no extra charge. So although i cant speak for the quality of the R1100, i can give a shining review for the R1600.Package arrived earlier than expected and immediately on opening it you could tell it was well made. Its currently hooked up to a single 400w 4ohm sub and it sounds fantastic (RMS of the amp is 350/4ohm). The remote input thingy is also really useful so you're not constantly deafening yourself.Hopefully it's durable enough to last a few years but so far I've been nothing but impressed.

リモートのボリュームを絞っても完全に音を消すことはできませんしかし、この価格でこの音、コスパ最高ですしっかりとダンピングの効いた腰のある低音が出ます電源ONからの立ち上がりがいくらか遅いです出力に偽りはありません。十分な力があります高価なものは必要無いと感じるほどのアンプですね。

Good sound